Casement Windows

Casement Windows in a Snowy Environment

Casement windows are a popular choice in mountain homes as they provide unobstructed views and allow for easy airflow. While they are a great option, casement windows face unique challenges when installed in cold and snowy environments. Unlike traditional double-hung windows, casement windows open outward, making them particularly vulnerable to moisture. When a window is open- even just a crack- snow and rain can accumulate on both the sash and the sill, causing the wood to swell and making the window more difficult to open and close.. That in turn leads to several issues, which, once in motion, are easily exacerbated.  The best way to prevent issues with casement windows is to 1) limit their direct exposure to moisture 2) always lock the windows when closed.  Item 2 is particularly important and often forgotten.  Below are some common causes and symptoms of casement window issues.

Causes:

Radiant heat: Perhaps the most common cause of casement window issues is due to incorrect adjustments to the radiant heat inside the home.  Most damage can be traced back to this since it is so common for radiant heat to overheat a room, in turn prompting folks to open windows.  If this happens in the middle of winter, the chances of encountering issues with your windows increases significantly. The best line of defense is to be diligent about closing and locking your windows whenever they are not in use.  This can be easier said than done, especially in large homes with many windows.

Window sweat: Another cause of wood swelling is from window sweat.  If your home has honeycomb style window coverings, they are particularly insulative and during cold months will cause your windows to sweat.  If your windows are left cracked open- and even if they’re closed but not locked- the window sweat can cause the sash and sill to swell.  It’s recommended to leave honeycomb style blinds open a couple inches on the top or bottom during cold winter months to allow airflow to the window glass. This will significantly reduce the occurrence of sweat forming on the glass panes, and in turn prolong the life of your windows.

Symptoms:

Hardware failure: When the sill or sash swells, the window will have difficulty opening, closing, and locking, and this in turn leads to unnecessary torque on the window crank and lock mechanisms when being used.  The additional torque that’s required causes the gears of the opening mechanism to wear out and to get pulled loose from the sash. This is where it can be a slippery slope leading to additional issues.  As a rule of thumb, if your window does not easily close fully, do not continue torquing the closing mechanism.  Pause and look at where the sticking point seems to be and then consider contacting someone (us :)) for help.

Weatherstripping: Another common issue is that once water/ice gets on the sill, closing the window allows the weatherstripping to freeze and stick to the window frame.  The next time the window is opened, the weatherstripping tears and/or is pulled loose from the sash.  This leads to a poor seal (ie. drafts) and results in weather stripping hanging loose on the outside of your windows.

Screens breaking: A major difference between casement and traditional double hung windows is that the screens are on the inside of the window. This is by necessity since the windows have to be able to open outward. When the issues described above occur, it becomes necessary to remove the screen in order to pull the window closed.  This in turn causes many screen frames to be bent and broken.  Most of the time these can be fixed or replaced but that can be costly.  This is just one more reason to be diligent about closing and locking your windows when not in use!

In summary, the best way to prevent issues with your casement windows is to limit their direct exposure to moisture and always close and lock your windows when not in use.  I can’t stress enough the correlation between the improper adjustment of radiant heat and casement window issues. During winter months, your best line of defense is simply to never need to open them in the first place.